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FAQ
Dishwasher Obstruction For Removal Back To Top
Q: My dishwasher is leaking into my basement, which is finished. I need to get my dishwasher out in order to repair it or to replace it. Our Formica countertop attaches to a tile wall, therefore it can't be lifted. The previous owners installed a new floor, which is preventing me from getting the dishwasher out. Any suggestions?
A: It would have to be assumed that you have already called a plumbing or appliance repair professional to see if the dishwasher can be fixed where it is or you just want to treat yourself with a nice brand new one with some of the great new features they have to offer. However, if the leak has caused damage to the basement, which needs to be repaired, or the professional tells you the dishwasher is beyond repair, then the dishwasher will have to come out. Since dishwashers dimensions are all close to the same, the easiest way to accomplish that will be to remove some of the flooring that can be replaced more easily than the counter top and tile wall. However, you will need to contact some general contractors who specialize in home repair to come take a look at your situation to determine the best, most economical course.
Frozen Pipes Back To Top
Q: Recently the weather dropped below freezing for a few days. When we came home from work, we noticed we had no water coming from our kitchen sink. I checked all other faucets, and they are fine. Is there a way to unthaw the pipes without having to tear into the wall?
A: There is no easy solution or quick fix for this one. The wall where the pipe is frozen needs to be heated from both sides (tented on the outside if necessary). The real problem lies in the fact that if the pipe is frozen it is more than likely cracked also. So once defrosted you're left with a broken and flooding pipe in the wall.
You need to call a professional plumber who is equipped with a thawing machine that uses an electric current through clamped leads attached to each side of the affected area. This is the safest method to defrost it to prevent further damage to the pipe. Once the water begins to flow, a repair to one or more burst sections may be necessary and test. Then you will need to insulate the pipe and wall cavity and patch the wall if opened for access to repair. The problem will persist in all un-insulated exterior wall cavities where pipe is run, so plan ahead and schedule the work to start before the winter season.
Low Water Pressure Back To Top
Q: Why has faucet suddenly lost water pressure?
A: First, make sure that the shut-off valve under the sink is all the way on. If it is, then you very likely have some foreign material restricting the flow somewhere within your faucet.
The apparatus used to restrict water in faucets also creates the faucet to catch grit and sediment with just one screw-off screen. Carefully take the aerator at the end of the spout apart and check for sediment. After putting it back together, it will probably work fine. If not, then it's time to call a professional plumber to further diagnose the problem.
Rusty Water Removal Back To Top
Q: Does a water softener remove rust from the water? If not, how should this be done?
A: A water softener has the ability to remove iron. The hardness of the water and the capacity of the resin bed will determine the quantity of iron the softener can remove. If there is sediment in the water, then a pre-sediment filter in front of the softener will help.
We recommend that a water analysis be performed and a water treatment professional be consulted prior to making any type of investment in water conditioning equipment. A separate iron filter may also be necessary.
Smell In Bathroom Back To Top
Q: In the last few days, a terrible odor has developed in our bathroom. A neighbor suggested that maybe gasses are leaking into the room from a pipe.
A: It does sound like you may smell sewer gas from your toilet or sink. Inspect the toilet for any visual cracks. If the toilet rocks and is loose to the floor, it is time to reset it with a new wax seal that prevents sewer gasses to escape. It also may be found that the flange has a poor connection to the pipe that can cause the odor of gasses.
Check for cracks and loose connections on the discharge side of the sink trap. They may need repair or replacement. In an uncommon situation, I have zeroed in on the smell coming from build-up between the inner and outer layers of the sink what is used as an overflow passage. Thoroughly flush out with bleach or other cleaning agent to kill any bacteria that may have formed.
Water Heater Leaking Back To Top
Q: My water heater is leaking. Is it possible to repair it without buying a new one?
A: How old is your water heater? They have a life expectancy of about ten years, though you hear of some that last longer, and some that go sooner.
If your tank is leaking from a fitting, it probably can be fixed. If it is leaking from the tank, such as a rust spot or a seam, it is time to get it replaced before the inevitable flood comes.
Furnace Repair Back To Top
Q: I started my furnace and set it at the temperature I needed. It ran fine and did reach the temperature, but after a few minutes it kicked on again. It would run for approximately ten minutes and shut off. The furnace is about 20 years old, and I had it cleaned and serviced last year.
A: You need to have a heating and air conditioning expert come look at your furnace. However, do not be surprised if they recommend you get a new heating system. It may be much more efficient and economical than an older one that may continue to break down.
To locate a reliable heating and air conditioning specialist to come look at your furnace and determine whether it can be repaired, or would be more economical in the long run to replace it. Although heating and air conditioning companies usually charge for service calls whether you choose to have them repair the system or not, they almost always give free estimates on installing or replacing systems. If you decide to buy a new one, don't automatically sign a contract with the first company that gives you an estimate, even if you think you want to hire them to do the job. New equipment is too large an investment to make a snap decision, and reputable firms will respect your desire to do your homework and get comparable bids.
Be sure to talk to at least three different companies and carefully compare their bids for the size of system recommended, manufacturer warranties on both parts and labor, and any extra ductwork they may recommend before making a final choice. Collecting competitive bids is always the best way to make sure you have all the information you need to choose the best product, as well as, the service provider you would prefer working with.
Moisture Build-up on Windows Back To Top
Q: What do I do about moisture building up on my windows?
A: Condensation has become an increasing overwhelming issue. Energy conservation causes modern homes to be built (or retrofitted) so air tight that all kinds of problems result in our homes, including excess moisture, molds, allergens and other indoor air pollutants that endanger our health as well as our property.
Solving moisture problems often requires a process of elimination, first to figure out where the excess moisture is coming from and secondly, how to get rid of it.
Steps to reduce condensation include installing thermal pane windows; consulting with a heating and air specialist to see about increasing air circulation and perhaps adding a dehumidifier; increasing attic ventilation; waterproofing foundations and basements; installing drainage to divert water away from the home and/or sump pumps to remove water that accumulates under the house. Serious problems may require the services of Industrial Hygienists and Water Damage Restoration specialists.
For more information you can visit the following websites: http://www.enosdavison.com/. Mr. Davison, "The Condensation Man," has been solving condensation and ventilation problems since 1973. He offers a couple of different handbooks with information he provides in his seminars and workshops which may help you solve the problem yourself or direct you to the most appropriate professional help.
Not Enough Heat or A/C on 2nd Floor Back To Top
Q: I have a two-story house. The problem I am having is that the airflow downstairs is perfect. The airflow upstairs, however, is minimal. Besides adding separate heating and air conditioning units for the upstairs, what options do I have? Thanks for the help.
A: I suggest you ask a few heating and air conditioning specialists to come analyze your system and see what they would recommend. Discussing it with several different experts is almost always the best way to determine how to tackle a project, find the costs and decide which professional you would prefer to hire.
Air Conditioning Maintenance Back To Top
Q: Is there anything I can do to maintain my air conditioning unit?
A: Yes. The first thing to check before turning on your unit is to make sure the condensing unit located outside is not covered up. The unit needs to draw air into the system in order to have something to cool and blow out inside, but the process is hindered if it cannot pull enough air in from outside.
We're amazed how many homeowners call because their air conditioner isn't cooling their house, only to find they forgot they had temporarily stacked lawn furniture, bags of leaves and lawn clippings, etc. around their outside unit over the winter. Some people intentionally cover their condenser to "protect" it from the elements during the winter, although these units are designed for outdoor installation and require no protection at all.
Here are some basic tips:
Q: I have a question concerning a central air conditioner in my home. The supply air is run thru ductwork in the attic. These ducts are insulated but condensation builds up internally and drips back into the house through the supply vents in the ceiling. How can I correct this problem before it causes any more damage to the ceiling, floors, furniture, etc.? Do I need more insulation around the ductwork in the attic?
A: This sounds more like a ventilation problem. When it is much warmer inside the home than outside, the heat naturally rises up, condenses in the warm ductwork, and drips back down into the living space. So insulating the ductwork would only compound the problem. Rather, you need adequate ventilation in the attic area so the warm air can circulate and escape. This could include gable vents or even dormers to keep the air moving. Proper attic ventilation will also help keep the attic dry to help prevent dry rot, mold, mildew and prolong the life of your roof. You will need to contact a general contractor to do this for you.
Q: My dishwasher is leaking into my basement, which is finished. I need to get my dishwasher out in order to repair it or to replace it. Our Formica countertop attaches to a tile wall, therefore it can't be lifted. The previous owners installed a new floor, which is preventing me from getting the dishwasher out. Any suggestions?
A: It would have to be assumed that you have already called a plumbing or appliance repair professional to see if the dishwasher can be fixed where it is or you just want to treat yourself with a nice brand new one with some of the great new features they have to offer. However, if the leak has caused damage to the basement, which needs to be repaired, or the professional tells you the dishwasher is beyond repair, then the dishwasher will have to come out. Since dishwashers dimensions are all close to the same, the easiest way to accomplish that will be to remove some of the flooring that can be replaced more easily than the counter top and tile wall. However, you will need to contact some general contractors who specialize in home repair to come take a look at your situation to determine the best, most economical course.
Frozen Pipes Back To Top
Q: Recently the weather dropped below freezing for a few days. When we came home from work, we noticed we had no water coming from our kitchen sink. I checked all other faucets, and they are fine. Is there a way to unthaw the pipes without having to tear into the wall?
A: There is no easy solution or quick fix for this one. The wall where the pipe is frozen needs to be heated from both sides (tented on the outside if necessary). The real problem lies in the fact that if the pipe is frozen it is more than likely cracked also. So once defrosted you're left with a broken and flooding pipe in the wall.
You need to call a professional plumber who is equipped with a thawing machine that uses an electric current through clamped leads attached to each side of the affected area. This is the safest method to defrost it to prevent further damage to the pipe. Once the water begins to flow, a repair to one or more burst sections may be necessary and test. Then you will need to insulate the pipe and wall cavity and patch the wall if opened for access to repair. The problem will persist in all un-insulated exterior wall cavities where pipe is run, so plan ahead and schedule the work to start before the winter season.
Low Water Pressure Back To Top
Q: Why has faucet suddenly lost water pressure?
A: First, make sure that the shut-off valve under the sink is all the way on. If it is, then you very likely have some foreign material restricting the flow somewhere within your faucet.
The apparatus used to restrict water in faucets also creates the faucet to catch grit and sediment with just one screw-off screen. Carefully take the aerator at the end of the spout apart and check for sediment. After putting it back together, it will probably work fine. If not, then it's time to call a professional plumber to further diagnose the problem.
Rusty Water Removal Back To Top
Q: Does a water softener remove rust from the water? If not, how should this be done?
A: A water softener has the ability to remove iron. The hardness of the water and the capacity of the resin bed will determine the quantity of iron the softener can remove. If there is sediment in the water, then a pre-sediment filter in front of the softener will help.
We recommend that a water analysis be performed and a water treatment professional be consulted prior to making any type of investment in water conditioning equipment. A separate iron filter may also be necessary.
Smell In Bathroom Back To Top
Q: In the last few days, a terrible odor has developed in our bathroom. A neighbor suggested that maybe gasses are leaking into the room from a pipe.
A: It does sound like you may smell sewer gas from your toilet or sink. Inspect the toilet for any visual cracks. If the toilet rocks and is loose to the floor, it is time to reset it with a new wax seal that prevents sewer gasses to escape. It also may be found that the flange has a poor connection to the pipe that can cause the odor of gasses.
Check for cracks and loose connections on the discharge side of the sink trap. They may need repair or replacement. In an uncommon situation, I have zeroed in on the smell coming from build-up between the inner and outer layers of the sink what is used as an overflow passage. Thoroughly flush out with bleach or other cleaning agent to kill any bacteria that may have formed.
Water Heater Leaking Back To Top
Q: My water heater is leaking. Is it possible to repair it without buying a new one?
A: How old is your water heater? They have a life expectancy of about ten years, though you hear of some that last longer, and some that go sooner.
If your tank is leaking from a fitting, it probably can be fixed. If it is leaking from the tank, such as a rust spot or a seam, it is time to get it replaced before the inevitable flood comes.
Furnace Repair Back To Top
Q: I started my furnace and set it at the temperature I needed. It ran fine and did reach the temperature, but after a few minutes it kicked on again. It would run for approximately ten minutes and shut off. The furnace is about 20 years old, and I had it cleaned and serviced last year.
A: You need to have a heating and air conditioning expert come look at your furnace. However, do not be surprised if they recommend you get a new heating system. It may be much more efficient and economical than an older one that may continue to break down.
To locate a reliable heating and air conditioning specialist to come look at your furnace and determine whether it can be repaired, or would be more economical in the long run to replace it. Although heating and air conditioning companies usually charge for service calls whether you choose to have them repair the system or not, they almost always give free estimates on installing or replacing systems. If you decide to buy a new one, don't automatically sign a contract with the first company that gives you an estimate, even if you think you want to hire them to do the job. New equipment is too large an investment to make a snap decision, and reputable firms will respect your desire to do your homework and get comparable bids.
Be sure to talk to at least three different companies and carefully compare their bids for the size of system recommended, manufacturer warranties on both parts and labor, and any extra ductwork they may recommend before making a final choice. Collecting competitive bids is always the best way to make sure you have all the information you need to choose the best product, as well as, the service provider you would prefer working with.
Moisture Build-up on Windows Back To Top
Q: What do I do about moisture building up on my windows?
A: Condensation has become an increasing overwhelming issue. Energy conservation causes modern homes to be built (or retrofitted) so air tight that all kinds of problems result in our homes, including excess moisture, molds, allergens and other indoor air pollutants that endanger our health as well as our property.
Solving moisture problems often requires a process of elimination, first to figure out where the excess moisture is coming from and secondly, how to get rid of it.
Steps to reduce condensation include installing thermal pane windows; consulting with a heating and air specialist to see about increasing air circulation and perhaps adding a dehumidifier; increasing attic ventilation; waterproofing foundations and basements; installing drainage to divert water away from the home and/or sump pumps to remove water that accumulates under the house. Serious problems may require the services of Industrial Hygienists and Water Damage Restoration specialists.
For more information you can visit the following websites: http://www.enosdavison.com/. Mr. Davison, "The Condensation Man," has been solving condensation and ventilation problems since 1973. He offers a couple of different handbooks with information he provides in his seminars and workshops which may help you solve the problem yourself or direct you to the most appropriate professional help.
Not Enough Heat or A/C on 2nd Floor Back To Top
Q: I have a two-story house. The problem I am having is that the airflow downstairs is perfect. The airflow upstairs, however, is minimal. Besides adding separate heating and air conditioning units for the upstairs, what options do I have? Thanks for the help.
A: I suggest you ask a few heating and air conditioning specialists to come analyze your system and see what they would recommend. Discussing it with several different experts is almost always the best way to determine how to tackle a project, find the costs and decide which professional you would prefer to hire.
Air Conditioning Maintenance Back To Top
Q: Is there anything I can do to maintain my air conditioning unit?
A: Yes. The first thing to check before turning on your unit is to make sure the condensing unit located outside is not covered up. The unit needs to draw air into the system in order to have something to cool and blow out inside, but the process is hindered if it cannot pull enough air in from outside.
We're amazed how many homeowners call because their air conditioner isn't cooling their house, only to find they forgot they had temporarily stacked lawn furniture, bags of leaves and lawn clippings, etc. around their outside unit over the winter. Some people intentionally cover their condenser to "protect" it from the elements during the winter, although these units are designed for outdoor installation and require no protection at all.
Here are some basic tips:
- Run your air conditioner for a few minutes now, before you need it. If you wait until the first hot day to discover is isn't working, you'll find yourself on a waiting list, sweltering sometimes for days before an air conditioning specialist can come to fix it.
- Change the filters regularly. Dirty filters restrict air flow, reducing efficiency and worse case, can cause the evaporator to ice up. Disposable fiberglass filters should replaced.
- Electrostatic or electronic filters need to be washed regularly.
- Be sure all access panels are secure, with all the screws in place.
- Clean obvious obstructions such as newspaper, leaves, etc. from around the exterior of the unit.
- Be sure the thermostat is set in the cooling mode. Just setting the dial below room temperature will not activate the air conditioning if it is set in the heat mode.
- A thoroughly cleaned air conditioning unit will operate at top efficiency. However, homeowners are strongly discouraged from using a hose and water to try clean it themselves because of the very serious risk of electrical shock and possible shorting of electrical components. Like most anything you own, you will find that regular maintenance sooner is far less costly than repairs or even replacement later.
Q: I have a question concerning a central air conditioner in my home. The supply air is run thru ductwork in the attic. These ducts are insulated but condensation builds up internally and drips back into the house through the supply vents in the ceiling. How can I correct this problem before it causes any more damage to the ceiling, floors, furniture, etc.? Do I need more insulation around the ductwork in the attic?
A: This sounds more like a ventilation problem. When it is much warmer inside the home than outside, the heat naturally rises up, condenses in the warm ductwork, and drips back down into the living space. So insulating the ductwork would only compound the problem. Rather, you need adequate ventilation in the attic area so the warm air can circulate and escape. This could include gable vents or even dormers to keep the air moving. Proper attic ventilation will also help keep the attic dry to help prevent dry rot, mold, mildew and prolong the life of your roof. You will need to contact a general contractor to do this for you.
